Angra do Heroismo, 1 of 2

We ended our second day’s tour with Gui and Azores 38 N with some striking panoramic views of Angra do Heroismo, the small UNESCO World Heritage city on Terceira Island where we stayed.

Old buildings are protected. They can be extensively remodeled on the inside but the exterior must be preserved. I’m not sure how far this preservation extends.

There is a beautiful mixture of old and new in the city. And lest you think all the churches are traditional, here’s one that breaks the mold.

Volcanoes and vineyards

There’s evidence of Terceira’s volcanic origins all over the island if you know where to look. On our Azores 38N tour, our guide Gui took us to see fumaroles — a volcano “breathing” — at Terceira National Park. You can see the steam lightly rising on two sides of the photo above.

One of the geologic highlights of Terceira is a dormant volcano that visitors can enter. It sounded great until I read accounts that estimated access required walking about 700 stairs in and out. No doubt interesting but my knees wouldn’t have survived the effort.

From various high spots on the island it’s possible to see multiple volcanic calderas, wide basins of land that remain after a volcano goes extinct.

We traveled a lot of back roads with Gui. Here we were caught in a Terceira traffic jam. I was told there are more cows than people on Terceira.

Yesterday I told you that there are a lot of rock walls on Terceira. Most are used to corral livestock. These above are different. This is a vineyard moving into its winter dormancy and it’s unlike any vineyard I’ve seen before.

While it has a mild Mediterranean climate, Terceira’s address in the Atlantic Ocean means it doesn’t attain the warmth needed to ripen wine grapes. So the vineyard is divided into small rock enclosures. These enclosures absorb solar warmth and then release it to the grapes.

Did I have wine on Terceira? Yes. Was it from the island? {Head slap.} I forgot to ask.

Getting around with Gui

We’re accustomed to traveling independently but without a great guide book or a lot of study it’s easy to miss a lot, even on a small island like Terceira. But a bus tour didn’t appeal. So…

We hired our first-ever private guide, Gui Bruges of Azores 38N, the very best thing we did during our stay. Gui was informative, upbeat, and a lot of fun. And most of the time he was at the other end of the van above, driving.

We could have driven ourselves but we’d never have found the overlooks and beautiful spots like this that Gui led us to. Not to mention that we’d probably still be wandering, lost, on the narrow, unsigned roads that lead to the best places.

We toured with Gui for two days, exploring the Terceira coast and its history and the volcanism that created the island. The farmlands above are notable in that the lines you see are rock walls that divide the fields. These walls cover the island, hundreds of miles of them.

The Azores were formed by underwater volcanoes sputtering to the surface of the Atlantic, spewing lava. As with other rock strewn lands, when the land is cleared the rocks have to go somewhere.

The island is dotted with small coastal villages that are surrounded by agricultural lands – a lot of dairy and beef farming.